Sol e Sombra Restaurant

Located on the corner of Avª Sacadura Cabral and Rua David de Sousa, in the heart of the Campo Pequeno neighborhood, is this post-25th April restoration wonder, a tavern, therefore.

Inside, paintings of bulls on their hind legs, brave neighing horses and Benfica football icons flank a glass and aluminium counter, as well as a dozen wooden tables. Those who pay close attention may also spot a country cap, already somewhat stained by time and dust.

Outside, a sunny terrace made of those red plastic tables provided by a beer brand. The menu, handwritten on a piece of paper from the tablecloth, is stuck with tape to the glass.

No matter which side you are on, you will always find Mr. Alcides ready to serve what will eventually be the best beer in Lisbon.

The menu is always the same and revolves around codfish à Gomes de Sá, steak, pork ribs and omelets, prepared by a generously sized country lady.

The service, in the laborious working-class style, is done in three knocks and with plebeian earthenware all out of sync.

Those who are looking for compliments and nobility are therefore mistaken, as this is a place for sweaty-faced people, who only come in the wake of some very fresh blondes, well-groomed and with exact pressure.

I like it, I even lick it.